McIntyre

With Monterey County known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, you’d think that a long time ago someone would have figured out that it’s a good idea to make sparkling wine here. After all, Champagne is mostly made from those two grapes—and we all know how well that worked out for the French. Steve McIntyre, who has farmed, managed and/or owned vineyards for nearly three decades, applied that logic to his unique L’homme qui ris (pronounced lay home kay ree).

Methode Champenoise is the same process used to make the great sparkling wines of Champagne. Unlike other, less expensive and labor-intensive methods, Methode Champenoise undergoes a secondary fermentation right in the bottle. Along the way, as the wine creates itself, it needs to be lovingly turned (called riddling) each day to allow the gentle mixing of yeast and particulate matter within. This leads to complex, layered, elegant wines with tiny bubbles and more profound characteristics.

L’homme qui ris is typically made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay directly from McIntyre’s estate-owned vineyard and spends at least 20 months "en tirage." That means it gathers the richness and depth one expects to find in a classic bubbly and also allows for a wine that improves with age, unlike so many sparkling wines made to be consumed immediately upon production.

The wine’s name is based upon a beautiful painting by contemporary international artist James Jarvaise. It depicts a clown in slight abstract and evokes the gaiety and liveliness of the wine itself. Perhaps it is a tribute to have it be in French, since that nation is so influential in bringing the joys of sparkling wine to the world at large.

Champagne winemaker Geŕard Ployez crafts L’homme qui ris in classic Brut style. The wine distinguishes itself with high notes of lemony crispness atop a rich middle of brioche toast, vanilla and honeysuckle. The wine’s hint of sweetness rounds out a classically light clean finish. With a tight, lively bead, this sparkler contends with imports at twice the price and places Monterey County and Steve McIntyre right in the middle of the international bubbly parade of stars alongside Napa’s entries and the wines from Europe. Double Gold Medal and "Best of Appellation" accolades from Appellation America...